I had the privilege of attending the Specialty Coffee Expo in Portland after a couple years away from the event. It was reassuring to run into some familiar faces while taking in the vast exhibitor hall which features everything from packaging solutions, importers, innovative small wares, hi-tech equipment, and booths hosted by the world’s coffee producing countries. That coffee brings people together has always made it special to me, and it does so on a global scale. It is reassuring to be able to talk with people from every continent over a shared passion during fractious times.
After wandering the Expo for most of the day and catching up with people from various points in my coffee career, I made it a point to attend a couple evening events. It is rare that I am forced to choose between a multitude of interesting simultaneous events but I did my best to visit a few. My first stop was at See See coffee for an outdoor reception (merciful weather) to showcase the newest edition of the Coffee Breath podcast, hosted by the legendary Double J of Black Rabbit Service. Then, on to a reception at Coava Coffee that hosted the design team from La Marzocco espresso machines, a company that has deepened its commitment to high quality, hand-built equipment. It was a useful lesson in good design process and a welcome reminder that craft is still alive in increasingly automated times. Having worked on La Marzocco’s for over a decade, I confess to an affinity for these well built, attractive workhorses. The original founders of Portland’s “The Fresh Pot” cafes, Skip Colombo and Vin Vinci were in attendance. These are two longtime friends, who changed the course of my life by opening my eyes and palette to how great espresso could be which in turn inspired the opening of my “Coffee Plant” cafes. Lest I get too caught up in the Golden Age of Espresso, I’ll continue on with Friday evening. Next, was a quick peek at Stumptown’s reception in the Evergreen space, beautifully decorated with branches of cherry blossoms. My evening wrapped up at a non-coffee-related musical performance by high school friend Steve Ball with Will Johns and the Cream of Eric Clapton band - some world class musicians. There’s a reason we use the phrase “Classic” Rock.
Saturday, I was tipped off about a cupping event focused on Guatemalan coffee in the afternoon hosted by Terra Negra. I got to sample twenty two specialty Guatemalan coffees. It should be noted, that just achieving Specialty grade in coffee is no small feat. Agriculture is inherently challenging and terroir, altitude, and varietal only go so far. A great deal of care, often with limited resources in places with limited infrastructure, goes into coffee production, and coffees that make the speciality grade represent the cream of these crops. I enjoyed conversation with producers Giovanni De Paz of Family Coffee Trade and Ana Isabel Giron of El Zapote Farm. It is truly humbling to meet people who overcome so many challenges to create such unique and delicious offerings. I’m grateful that so many producers from around the world came to Portland and hope their trips created positive connections and financial success.
